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You don’t need to wreck your back or your knees to resurface a neglected or badly finished deck. Just rent a floor sander, the kind you’d use on indoor hardwood floors, and buy a staining brush with a threaded base that accepts a broom handle. These two tools enable you to cover large areas quickly and tackle most of the work while standing upright.

Don’t confuse resurfacing with regular deck maintenance, which includes cleaning the surface every couple of years and applying a fresh coat of finish to protect the wood from moisture and sun. However, if the deck surface is badly weathered, or if the finish has failed and peeled, sanding is the best solution short of replacing the boards.

The deck shown here was painted with a solid-color, water-based vinyl/acrylic stain. The coating peeled, the nails popped and some of the boards cupped. Sanding not only removed all of the finish, it also helped flatten the irregular surfaces and exposed sound wood so the new semi-transparent stain could bond.

It’s possible to blast away old finish and weathered wood with an 1,800- to 2,600-psi pressure washer, but this usually batters the soft wood and leaves the harder grain as knife edges that need to be sanded anyway. Resurfacing with a floor sander does the job in one step. Power washing also would have set us back a couple of days while we waited for the wood to dry thoroughly for sanding and finishing.

We sanded this deck with the floor sander. Of course we could have sanded the whole deck with a belt sander. But using the floor sander was faster and easier on our backs. We finished the perimeter with a belt sander and touched up the edges of the planks with a scraper. We also used chemical paint stripper to clean a few knotholes. In hindsight, it might have been even easier to pressure wash the edges between boards rather than scrape them, but we didn’t want to wait for the wood to dry.

Using the sander

Before sanding a deck, countersink all nails or screws and replace rotten deck boards. If a fastener protrudes above the surface, it will tear the sandpaper and could damage the sanding drum. We can’t tell you how deep to sink the fasteners; it depends on how much material you remove. But fasteners will rust if you sand off their protective coating, so sink them deep enough to avoid damage.

The Essex Silver-Line SL-8 floor sander we rented was far easier to control than the sanders available years ago. The motor automatically maintains a constant speed of 1,800 rpm regardless of the load. This provides greater control and more consistent sanding results. The sander also pivots back onto its casters unless you raise the handle, making the drum bear down on the surface. This reduces gouging as you start or stop each pass. The key to working quickly and easily is to let the sander do the work. Since the 115-pound tool bears down on the surface, you don’t have to exert as much force yourself.

Like many decks, this one was built with 2×6 (5-1/2-in.-wide) lumber. The 6-in.-dia. sanding drum is 8 in. wide, so it sands the full width of a plank in one pass to achieve an even surface. It’s not important to remove every bit of weathered wood in a single pass. Working in long passes whenever possible gives the best results. Short back-and-forth passes may leave small gouges that show when you apply a finish.

To achieve uniform results, begin by sanding with the grain. The more cupped the planks, the harder they will be to sand. You may have to make multiple passes with different-grit paper or touch up tough spots. If the sander is not aggressive enough, you have two options: switch to a coarser grit or adjust your sanding angle. The least aggressive sanding direction is with the grain; the most aggressive is perpendicular to the grain. If sanding perpendicular to the grain is too forceful, consider switching to a finer abrasive.

You use upright floor sanders and portable belt sanders differently. You can skew a belt sander so the belt is at an angle to the grain while moving the tool parallel to the grain. That’s not possible with a floor sander. If you move the floor sander at an angle across the planks, it’s likely to splinter the edges and tear the paper, particularly if the boards are cupped.

A floor sander works whether you are moving forward or backward, but it is most effective and easy to control when you pull back against the direction of rotation. Lift the handle and walk backward slowly and evenly, stopping a safe distance from the opposite edge of the deck. Sand one plank at a time and ease the pressure on the sanding drum as you begin or finish a pass. This avoids lap marks.

Always use the highest-grit abrasive that removes the surface effectively without scratching it excessively. If you will be removing paint as we did on this deck, start with 20- to 30-grit abrasive. Try the finer grit first and only use a coarser one if you have to. You may want to make another pass with 40- to 50-grit to remove scratches before finishing with 60-grit. If you’re not removing paint, begin with the 60-grit.

While you’d use sandpaper as fine as 100 grit for final sanding of interior hardwood floors, do not go finer (higher) than 60-grit when sanding deck boards. If the surface is too smooth, the finish will not adhere as well. Change the sandpaper when its performance drops.

Finishing

Remove residual sawdust with a leaf blower before applying a finish. We finished this deck with a 1-in.-thickby 4-in.-wide pole-mounted Hanlon & Goodman Stainer brush. The fat applicator held lots of finish and the pole enabled us to make long strokes without bending over.

Follow the finish manufacturer’s instructions. To avoid lap marks or skips, finish the edges of a couple of planks and then coat the tops from one end of the deck to the other. Complete the rest of the deck a couple rows at a time.

Safety concerns

The sander comes with a big dust-collection bag. Use it, even if you don’t mind making a mess outdoors. It’s unhealthy to breathe sawdust, especially from treated lumber. Empty the bag when it is half full – any fuller and the airflow and sanding performance will decline.

The floor sander is relatively quiet, but the smaller belt sander is loud enough to warrant hearing protection.

Be careful to keep the cord away from the sander while you work so it doesn’t wrap itself around the drum. It helps to drape the cord over your shoulder and start sanding near the power outlet so the cord trails over the sanded decking. Floor sanders draw a lot of power – about 14 amps – so plug into an unused 20-amp circuit and avoid using a long extension cord.

While a stenciled-tile technique will produce a neat, uniform look, tiles painted with your design will look freeform and arty. Even children’s painting looks professional here. This technique works well with other ceramic items, such as mugs and plates.

You’ll need:

• clean ceramic tile
• palette or containers for paint
• soft brushes and/or an applicator bottle and tip
• ceramic paints that bake on in your oven

1. Paint the tiles using a small brush or an applicator bottle as if you were painting on paper. If the paint is too transparent, let the first coat dry, then add additional coats of paint. You can also mix paint to create different colors. Bottle and tip kits are perfect for drawing and writing on tiles. Just pour the paint into the bottle and draw.

2. When your tiles are finished, bake and cool the tiles according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The following instructions will help you stencil individual tiles, but you can use the same technique to stencil other ceramic items, such as mugs and plates.

You’ll need:

• clean ceramic tile
• palette or containers for paint
• paper plates or paper towels (for blotting)
• precut
• stencils to fit the tiles spray stencil adhesive
• natural-bristle stencil brushes
• scissors
• ceramic paints that bake on in your oven

1. Cut the stencils to fit your tiles. Stencil patterns are usually applied in more than one layer according to color.

2. Starting with the first layer, spray the back of the stencil with stencil adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Press the stencil onto the tile and seal the edges with your fingers.

3. To paint on the first layer, touch the tip of the brush to the paint’s surface, picking up only a small amount of paint. Then tap the brush onto a paper towel or plate to remove most of the paint. When the brush is almost dry, fill in the stencil with an up and down tapping motion. When you’re finished, remove the stencil. If paint has leaked under the stencil, wipe away the excess with a cloth; or, if the paint is already dry, a crafts knife. Bake and cool the tiles in the oven according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Apply the second stencil layer and paint. Use the registration marks to line up the stencils. Bake and cool again. Repeat as necessary for additional layers.

Forget ready-made stamps when what you need is lying in the front yard. Leaf stamping works best on smooth fabrics, such as flat rugs and non-nubby hand towels. You can also duplicate this stamped look on a wall using latex wall paint.

You’ll need:

• leaves — maple, oak, and ash work best
• crafts knife
• double-stick tape
• foam-core board
• fabric paints in green and tan

1. Trace your leaves – smooth side down – onto 1/4-inch foam-core board. Cut out the leaf shapes with a crafts knife. Change knife blades frequently to keep the edges of the foam-core board smooth.

2. Use double-stick tape to fasten each leaf to its foam-core board shape. Place the smooth, nonveined side of the leaf against the board.

3. Paint the leaves with a thick coat of paint (though too much paint will muddy the veins and details). Wash leaves as needed to remove drying paint.

4. Press the painted leaf to your fabric, taking care not to twist or slide it. Carefully pull it away and repeat the process in a pattern you like. When the paint is dry, fill any blank areas with a second hue. Apply it lightly and randomly with a brush or sponge for a natural effect.

With the wide variety of stencils available, you’re sure to find a design that suits your style. For an interesting room accent, use the stencil to make a border. Or, position your stencil to create an overall design on the wall.

You’ll need:

• precut stencils
• liquid acrylic or cream paints
• natural-bristle stencil brushes
• spray stencil adhesive
• level measure
• hard lead pencil
• paper plates or paper towels

1. Mark a very light baseline or registration line on your wall using a level and a hard lead pencil. Spray the back of the stencil with stencil adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Press the stencil into place, sealing the edges to the wall.

2. Touch your brush to the paint’s surface and vigorously tap the brush onto the paper plate or paper towels, removing most of the paint from the brush. Then, using a tapping motion, paint completely around the inside edge of a design. Pick up more paint as needed.

3. To color in the center of the design, pull in paint from the painted edge, still using the tapping motion. This will create subtle shading. When the designs are all filled in, lift the stencil from the wall and reposition it for the next set of designs. Erase the registration lines with a soft art eraser or paint over them.

For those who like do-it-yourself home projects there are numerous metal building kits to consider. The do it yourself metal buildings are ideal for those who have some construction experience and who can follow detailed instructions. Although you may want to recruit an assistant to help you when erecting a metal structure on your residential property, these kits are usually easy enough for one person to handle. Another benefit of the building kit is speed, these kits can be put together in a lot less time than you might think.

One reason these metal kits are able to be assembled so quickly is because their bolted connections save time and their self drilling connections help siding and roofing adhere in less time. This preparation means you don’t have to guess at where the components should be connected. Of course the speed of your building project depends on how extensive it is. The smaller metal building kits are the fastest to assemble and are easy for most every homeowner. They come with instructions that are meant for the average do it yourself builder and some feature illustrations to help demonstrate the process.

Another reason you may want to consider a metal kit for your project is because it is cost efficient. Because you’re not paying for labor you are saving money. Kits come with metal that has already been prefabricated and measured to fit perfectly so there is no construction waste. Not only does this save money, it helps the environment also. On the subject of the environment, metal is preferable to wood because it helps save trees which are some of our most precious natural resources. In addition to being more affordable and better for the Earth these kits can even save you money in other ways.

For example, some metal structures qualify for cheaper insurance because of their fire resistant properties. This is just another benefit of the metal building. These buildings are also resistant to hail, rain, snow and heat. This is why they make perfect storage spots for vehicles or anything else that needs protection from the ravages of the weather. Therefore, do it yourself metal buildings are definitely recommended for most homeowners who want a project they can handle that pays off in many practical benefits.

Getting Started

Whether home is an apartment with room for a few pots, a townhouse with a desk or small flowerbed, or a suburban house with a yard, you can enjoy an herbal tea garden. Most herbal perennials thrive in full sun, but some like partial sun or even shade. Generally, herbs tolerate not-too-rich soil, little or no fertilizer, and only moderate amounts of water.

All you need to get started are herb plants of your choice, some easily worked soil with a fairly neutral pH, and — if you are gardening in containers — pots that have holes in the bottoms for good drainage. For pot planting, buy a quality sterile planting mix. If your garden soil isn’t crumbly, mix in peat moss, compost, or leaf mold equal to approximately one-third the volume of your garden soil. Make sure your planting area drains well.

Herbs suggested for containers also will do well in the garden. When temperatures begin to dip, however, potted tender perennials such as scented geraniums can be whisked indoors without the shock of being transplanted, and they’ll continue to thrive on sunny indoor window sills.